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Trip Report – March-April 2025

NOTES

This wasn’t the best time for the birds in South Korea but we were on our way home from Australia and decided to take a chance.

We planned the trip as a combination birding and sight-seeing. And so glad we did because we caught the height of blossom season in the south-east. This was particularly good because we didn’t see any when we went to Japan!

S Korea is easy to get around. We rented a car but you have to use their version of Google Maps (Naver) because Google Maps doesn’t work here!

Seoul

Day 1

We were staying across the road from the Namsom Outdoor Botanical Garden and the Seoul Tower so our first morning was spent in that area. Within the first 50 meters we had our first life birds -Vinous-throated Parrotbill. What great little birds – always in large groups and always on the move. A good start.

We walked up to the top of the hill for coffee, birding along the way  and it was a good chance to remind ourselves of some of the common species but there was nothing new for us.

An Uber to the Gyeonbokgung Palace complex for a walk around was great. Everyone dresses in traditional costumes so it adds to the history of the place.

It started snowing so we went across the road for a great Korean meal before returning to the hotel for a snooze.

We ubered again in the afternoon to collect our rental car and then drove now to the river to get about the only remaining Mongolian Gull in the area.

Night at Grand Hyatt Seoul

Day 2

We left the hotel very early to head north towards the DMZ to try for late wintering cranes.

We had identified a spot on eBird and made out way towards it – it was very birdy and a first stop gave us a number of Hill Pigeons and then dozens of Rustic and Yellow-throated Buntings. It was fabulous.

We then made our way towards the crane spot but came up against an Army Check Point and  barrier – they were vey nice but we needed a permit which we didn’t have. So we turned around and decided to explore the fields in the area. Just tons of birds. Siberian Accentor was the only life bird but we had dozens of Brambling as well.

It was fabulous and the weather was co-operating but we just couldn’t access the crane spot. And then we came up on the back side of the Army Check point – some how we had worked our way around behind it and we were in the area we weren’t supposed to be in!

So we figured while we were here, we might as well go for the cranes -we literally drove over the crest of a hill and there they were!! White-naped Cranes. Couldn’t believe it but figured we shouldn’t push our luck so we made our way back to the main road.

We drove west along the DMZ fence to Paju Wetlands. This was a strange spot because you can’t actually access the wetlands – you just have to park and walk around peering through the fence! Some good stuff had been seen – but not totally sure how. Having said that we did get one of our targets – Chinese Penduline tit.

On the way back into town we stopped at Ilsan Lake Park – what a park – really worth a visit even if you are not birding – within minutes there were Dusky Thrush, Naumann’s Thrush and Chinese Blackbird. Good views and easy walking.

What a day!

Night at Grand Hyatt

Day 3

There wasn’t a lot left around for us to find – all our efforts for Yellow-bellied Tit were futile but we decided to try again at Ilsan Lake Park because Chinese Grosbeaks and Gray-backed Thrush had been seen.

We walked the entire park and got to see all the same things as the day before and we were about to give hup when a found a flock of Chinese Grosbeaks. Great birds.

Lazy afternoon

Night at Grand Hyatt

Day 4

We left the Hyatt and started heading south towards Hwaseong Lake. The whole area was very birdy but it was impossible to stop anywhere so seeing them was a challenge. We finally parked and walked back along the dyke road where we got Chinese Stork and Pallas’s Warbler. 3 days before there had been 10,000 Baikal Teal but we couldn’t find one of them!!

We continued to another spot for Saunder’s Gull (success!) and then on to Seosan Lake for Hooded Crane. We drove around the rice fields for ages but no cranes! Thousands of Grey Herons though.

It started to rain so we were just driving out when a Little Bunting hopped up on the bush right before the car and let us take photos of it!

Night at the Ramada in Gunsan

Day 5

We decided to have another try for the Hooded Crane but it had the same result as yesterday. We spent hours scouring the huge area of rice fields again but it was very quiet. The only saving grace was a flock of Siberian Pipits and great shots of nesting Oriental Storks.

Night at the Ramada in Gunsan

Day 6

We left our hotel and drove south toward Gusipo Beach in search of Chinese Crested Terns.

This is a spectacular beach and we walked the full length of it. Then we decided to drive down and check out the pier  – still nothing. But we noticed that there was another stretch of beach on the other side of the pier and thought we would check it out.

The tide was well out but we scanned the sticks in the water and all of a sudden there they were. Both perched on sticks in the water – it was amazing – they hung around long enough for some great photos and then they disappeared. We were so lucky!

Night at Ramada Gunsan

Day 7

We left the Ramada and started driving east to Gusan. The west side of the country is really trashed – not an inch of habitat has been left. There are thousands of huge concrete apartment buildings and what isn’t covered in concrete is agricultural land.  It is certainly not scenic, that’s for sure.

But the east side seems quite different. Not really about birds but worth visiting. Busan is beautiful – a big city but really beautiful.

Night at Westin Josun

Day 8

We played tourist here for a day – going to the Gamcheon Village and Igidae Park – and the cherry blossoms were all out which made it even better.

Not much on the bird front but a lovely day.

Night at Westin Josun

Day 9

Driving out of Busan we stopped at a fabulous temple Beomeosa – this is an amazing place  and definitely worth a visit.

After a couple of hours there, we continue north to Tongdosa Temple. This is huge complex and quite a bit more touristy than Beomeosa but also worth a visit.

Drove on to Gyeongju – the streets were lined with cherry blossom trees – it was quite spectacular.

Night at the Hilton in Gyeongju 

Day 10

This was the last day of our trip.  We had really given up on birding because not much was around and there was a fair bit to see in terms of temples and historical sites.

We started at Bulgaksa Temple, was another beautiful Buddhist temple -and the monks were chanting while we were there which was really fabulous.

Up above the temple is the Seokgurum Grotto which we took the time to walk to and it too was quite magical.

There are a number of other spots around this area worth visiting but our time had run out so we have to leave them until next time.

Hotels

Grand Hyatt, Soeul

Ramanda Inn, Gunsan

Westin Josun, Busan

Hilton Hotel, Gyeongju

Guides & Resources

Guides:

Self-guided

Field Guide:

Birds of East Asia – Mark Brasil

Bird List: